São Luís, the capital of Maranhão in Brazil’s northeast, is also known as “Brazilian Jamaica.” It’s not a tourism tagline, however a mirrored image of how deeply reggae music has grow to be embedded within the metropolis’s social and cultural cloth.
What started as imported music from the Caribbean has, during the last 5 a long time, developed right into a key a part of life in São Luís, notably among the many metropolis’s Black and working-class communities. From the way in which individuals gown, converse and dance to the companies and cultural occasions constructed round it, reggae in São Luís is greater than leisure — it’s identification.
How Reggae Arrived in São Luís
There isn’t any single agreed-upon account of how reggae first arrived in São Luís. Some say it got here through shortwave radio broadcasts from Caribbean stations, whereas others level to sailors, returning migrants or DJs from nearby Pará who brought records into local clubs. Nevertheless it began, by the Seventies reggae was gaining traction in São Luís, particularly in neighbourhoods on the town’s outskirts.
Its reputation grew amongst communities who noticed parallels between the themes in reggae equivalent to social justice, resistance, and Black delight, and their very own lived realities. Whereas Caribbean genres like salsa and merengue had beforehand discovered short-lived reputation within the area, reggae struck a distinct chord and rapidly took root.
The Rise of Radiolas and Reggae Events
A significant factor in reggae’s unfold throughout São Luís was the rise of radiolas, massive custom-built sound techniques impressed by these in Jamaica. These cell partitions of audio system had been operated by DJs and sound engineers who performed vinyl information at group occasions and road events. Over time, radiolas grew to become a central function of the native scene, and DJ clashes or “duels” would entice tons of, generally hundreds, of attendees.
Native DJs additionally performed a key position in popularising reggae songs regardless of the language barrier. Lots of the earliest followers didn’t converse English, however the music nonetheless resonated. This led to the emergence of the melô custom, the place songs had been renamed primarily based on native experiences or misheard lyrics. One instance is Candy P. by Jamaican group Fabulous 5, which grew to become identified regionally as “melô da rain” as a result of DJ Carlinhos Tijolada first performed it throughout a reggae occasion in Cidade Operária whereas it was raining closely
A Dance Type and Tradition of Its Personal
As reggae grew to become extra established in São Luís, the town developed its personal manner of dancing to it. Generally known as agarradinho, the type includes dancing in shut embrace, a notable departure from the solo or freeform kinds seen in Jamaican dancehalls. This modification was a part of a broader pattern of native reinterpretation — reggae in São Luís was not a carbon copy of its Jamaican origins however tailored to native tastes, customs, and cultural expressions.
Reggae additionally blended with present Afro-Brazilian traditions, equivalent to Tambor de Crioula, Capoeira and Bumba Meu Boi, and at occasions even helped fund these cultural practices by occasion proceeds. Relatively than changing native tradition, reggae grew to become an extension of it.
From Marginalisation to Official Recognition
In its early years, reggae and its followers confronted important stigma. The style was usually dismissed by São Luís’ elite as “music of the poor,” and events had been stereotyped as websites of legal exercise. But these gatherings had been, in actuality, reasonably priced areas of social connection and pleasure, particularly for these excluded from the town’s mainstream venues.
Regardless of this, reggae endured and expanded. By the Nineties, an area reggae trade had fashioned, with companies constructed round radiolas, themed bars, file shops, and radio and TV programmes. São Luís had, by this level, grow to be the reggae capital of Brazil in each cultural and financial phrases.
In 2018, the Authorities of Maranhão formally recognised this legacy by opening the Reggae Museum in São Luís (Reggae Maranhão Museum)— the primary of its sort in Brazil and the one reggae museum outdoors Jamaica. The museum preserves native reggae historical past with artefacts equivalent to classic vinyl information, devices, and DJ tools, together with a duplicate radiola. A reggae-themed public sq. (Reggae sq.) was additionally created close by to host performances and group occasions.
In 2023, São Luís was formally designated Brazil’s Nationwide Reggae Capital.
Reggae as Belonging
For a lot of residents, reggae is inseparable from their sense of identification. Photographer Ingrid Barros, who has documented the native scene, describes it as a cultural reference level from childhood. “It’s current whether or not it’s in our properties, our neighbours’, or on the neighbourhood bar. That lingers as identification. It’s how we recognise ourselves,” she instructed Global Voices.
Every year on 11 Could — the anniversary of Bob Marley’s demise — Brazil marks Nationwide Reggae Day. Whereas it’s recognised nationally, the date holds explicit which means in São Luís, the place concert events, radio specials and DJ occasions are held to honour the person whose music performed such a pivotal position in shaping the town’s relationship with reggae.
Although Bob Marley by no means visited São Luís, his picture is a well-known sight throughout the town, showing in murals and road artwork. One of the iconic is situated within the Liberdade neighbourhood, at a spot generally known as Esquina Bob Marley (Bob Marley Nook). Believed to be one of many largest murals of the reggae icon on the planet, it was initially created in 1997 by artist Carlos Alberto Pinto. In response to the Reggae Point blog, the mural — which was just lately restored — was supposed to “carry extra peace to the group and preserve reggae tradition alive.”
Bob Marley’s legacy lives on in each radiola, vinyl file, and dance ground — not simply as a Jamaican icon, however as a determine deeply linked to the cultural story of Maranhão.
The Economics of Reggae in Maranhão
Recognising this deep cultural connection, in 2024 the Maranhão Tourism Division launched an initiative to map professionals involved in the local reggae production chain. The purpose is to formally recognise and assist those that contribute to the reggae financial system — from DJs and bands to trend designers, venue house owners, and occasion organisers. In response to Setur-MA, the mapping will assist inform new public insurance policies, create alternatives for tourism partnerships, and increase Maranhão’s cultural profile nationally and internationally.
As Socorro Araújo, State Secretary of Tourism, famous: “Reggae is one in all our largest belongings. This mapping connects individuals to tourism alternatives, reinforces our native tradition, and elevates Maranhão to the worldwide stage.”
By efforts like this, reggae in São Luís continues to evolve as each a cultural expression and an financial power — protecting the custom alive for future generations.
A Rhythm Reimagined
São Luís didn’t merely undertake reggae; it tailored and redefined it. The town’s distinctive sound, type, and scene had been constructed not simply from Jamaican information however from native creativity, resistance, and delight. Right this moment, reggae continues to thrive in São Luís, sustained by new generations and rooted in a shared sense of belonging.
On this metropolis, reggae isn’t background music. It’s tradition, group, and continuity.
For a deep dive into this cultural fusion of Afro-Brazilian and Jamaican influences, see the research by Matheus Andrade Marques, Universidade Federal do Ceará, Brasil.
Cowl Picture Supply : Reggae Point Blog
